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Pataxte white cacao (Mocambo, Theobroma bicolor) - a few words about its cousin the cocoa tree

Reading time: 5 minutes

On the shelves of the average Polish shop you will find a wide variety of chocolate: from milk chocolate, with or without filling, through dessert chocolate, bitter chocolate, to white chocolate, which for many gourmets is not really chocolate at all. Where does this disqualification come from? Because unlike other chocolate bars, white chocolate does not contain cocoa powder at all, only cocoa butter [1]. Few people know, however, that there is a type of cacao in the cocoa world that is called white because of its light colour. And while white chocolate lovers won't find it saving the status of their favourite treat, white cacao has a rich history dating back to the ancient Mayans and many remarkable properties, including a unique taste that differs from traditional cacao.

What is white cacao?

White cacao, a fruit from a tree called Pataxte (pronounced 'Pataszte'), is a lesser-known cousin of the cacao tree associated with all things chocolate. Historically, white cacao was commonly used in Mayan and Aztec cultures, but when the Spaniards arrived in South America, the European world became primarily interested in the brown cacao that now surrounds us at every turn. Knowledge of Pataxte has therefore not yet become widespread, but it is now booming, with global success perhaps waiting at the end of it [2].

Pataxte, also called mocambo tree or jaguar tree, belongs to the same genus Theobroma as the classic cocoa tree and functions under the species name Theobroma bicolor. It grows in Central and South America and, as a free-standing tree, grows to a few metres, while growing among other trees it can reach a dizzying 30 metres [3]. In comparison, traditional cocoa trees measure 15 metres at most [4]. Most importantly, Pataxte cacao is more white than brown, because although at first glance the fruit from the mocambo tree contains brownish seeds resembling almonds, these seeds turn out to be light grey, almost white, under the shell. They are also covered with a network of cracks reminiscent of a porcelain crackle. Like traditional cacao, the seeds from the jaguar tree are high in protein and fibre, but also in Omega 9 acids and caffeine [3]. In doing so, it is worth noting that Theobroma bicolor contains more protein and less fat than its classic cousin, making white cacao a better choice for those seeking protein without unnecessary extra energy [9].

The history of Pataxte - sacrum and profanum

Theobroma bicolor species has sometimes been neglected by scholars of South American plants and cultures. In particular, anthropologists fail to account for the difference between Pataxte and other, more common cacao species in their work - and this is even despite the fact that local people list white cacao as a distinct item among their daily foods. It is also negligent of researchers to forget the role that Pataxte played in Mayan and Aztec rituals [5].

We have already mentioned on our blog that cacao played a large role in the religious customs of pre-Columbian South American cultures [6]. Discovered perhaps as much as seven millennia ago, cacao fulfilled important functions in Aztec, Mayan or Olmec communities. It was consumed primarily in drinks, and possession of it was indicative of the high position and respect enjoyed by the owner. However, when it came to religious matters, cacao was at the forefront of the offerings that man made to ensure his good fortune to the gods. The important role of cacao is also highlighted by its presence in religious iconography: it appears as an attribute of the gods and, in the Maya, is even associated with the very beginning of the world [8].

It turns out, however, that despite the central role of the traditional cacao as we know it in the life of pre-Columbian cultures, it also found an important place in symbolism for Pataxte. Indeed, white cacao may have been the key additive that gave cacao fruit drinks their… foam. Sixteenth-century texts describing the festivities of Native American communities show that the whipped foam in a drink was seen as a feature indicative of its superior quality. However, this foam could not be easily obtained in a drink made from cacao alone, so it was white cacao, mocambo, that was used to achieve an effect worthy of today's cappuccino [7]. Despite the reluctance of European visitors to the jaguar tree, we know today, therefore, that Pataxte was also valued by pre-Columbian civilisations - the absolute pioneers of cacao.

Theobroma bicolor today and tomorrow

Today, Pataxte fruit is consumed in very different forms. The seeds of this cacao can be fried or added to soups, while the sweet pulp surrounding them in the fruit can be eaten raw. The shell created after the seeds and pulp have been removed can be - according to the 'nothing goes to waste' principle - used as a natural pot or container [3]. The fruit of the jaguar tree is still used today to prepare drinks, often with a thick foam, and these drinks are still popular during the holidays [2]. The taste of white cacao is certainly different from that of traditional cacao: it lacks the typical 'chocolateiness' and is somewhat reminiscent of macadamia and cashew nut. However, it is so distinctive that it is difficult not to recognise it in other products after the first taste [9].

Pataxte cultivation is popular primarily in Mexico, Colombia, Brazil, Ecuador and Peru, although the names of the tree differ enough in these countries to make one think that a completely different species is involved. Nowadays, white cacao products are beginning to appear on the market, and not only in cold drinks or ice cream, but also in sweets: marzipan and chocolate. It is very rarely used, as ceremonial cacao, due to its price and low availability. In Mexico, where the cultivation of the jaguar tree is also expanding, its fruit is eaten in sweets or as a raw snack. In the city of Oaxaca, there is even a tradition of preparing a drink called 'popo', which is referred to by visitors as the 'cappuccino of Oaxaca' [2]. No wonder!

But in addition to its nutritional and taste qualities, there is also talk of the health benefits of white cacao. Preliminary research on the Pataxte fruit indicates that its pulp may be rich in inulin, which aids digestion and behaves like a natural probiotic: it promotes the growth of the bacteria of our digestive system, while defending against invasive strains. In addition, white cacao turns out to contain antioxidants, whose positive effects on health are well known [2, 10]. So perhaps health-promoting products based on Pataxte fruit will soon be on the market.

White cacao has not enjoyed much fame so far, but it seems that this state of affairs is slowly changing. It is certainly worth keeping an eye on the further fortunes of the Pataxte fruit, a fruit that is known for its extraordinary taste, many uses, long history and - potentially - health properties. Perhaps soon, when ordering a hot cacao on a winter's evening, we will immediately be asked: white or dark?

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