Pataxte white cocoa (Mocambo, Theobroma bicolor) - a few words about the cousin of the cocoa tree

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On the shelf of an average store in Poland you will find all sorts of varieties of chocolate: from milk chocolate, with or without filling, through dessert chocolate, dark chocolate, to white chocolate, which for many gourmets is not real chocolate at all. Where does this disqualification come from? From the fact that, unlike other bars, white chocolate does not contain cocoa powder at all, but only cacao butter ¹. Few people know, however, that there is a type of cocoa in the cocoa world that is called white because of its light color. And while white chocolate lovers won't find it saving the status of their favorite treat, white cocoa has a rich history dating back to the ancient Mayans and many unusual properties, including a unique taste that differs from traditional cocoa.

What is white cocoa?

White cacao, a fruit from a tree called Pataxte (pronounced „Pataszte”), is a lesser-known cousin of the cacao tree associated with all things chocolate. In the past, white cacao was commonly used in Mayan and Aztec cultures, but when the Spaniards arrived in South America, the European world became primarily interested in the brown cacao that now surrounds us at every turn. Knowledge of Pataxte has thus far not become widespread, but is now booming, at the end of which perhaps global success awaits ².

Pataxte, also called mocambo tree or jaguar tree, belongs to the same genus Theobroma as the classic cocoa tree and functions under the species name Theobroma bicolor. It grows in Central and South America and, as a free-standing tree, grows to several meters, while growing among other trees it can reach a dizzying 30 meters ³. By comparison, traditional cocoa trees measure 15 meters at most ⁴. Most importantly, Pataxte cacao is more white than brown, because although at first glance the fruit from the mocambo tree contains brownish seeds resembling almonds, the seeds turn out to be light gray, almost white, under the shell. In doing so, they are covered with a network of cracks reminiscent of a porcelain crackle. The seeds from the jaguar tree are, like traditional cocoa, high in calories and rich in protein and fiber, but also in Omega 9 acids and caffeine ⁵. In doing so, it is worth noting that Theobroma bicolor contains more protein and less fat than its classic cousin, making white cacao a better choice for those seeking protein without unnecessary extra energy ^[9].

Pataxte history - sacred and profane

The species Theobroma bicolor is sometimes neglected by scholars of South American plants and cultures. In particular, anthropologists fail to account for the difference between Pataxte and other, more common cacao species in their work - and even though local people list white cacao as a distinct item among their daily foods. The researchers also neglect to mention the role that Pataxte played in Mayan and Aztec rituals ⁶.

We have already mentioned in the pages of our blog, that cacao played a large role in the religious customs of pre-Columbian South American cultures ⁷. Discovered perhaps as much as seven millennia ago, cacao served important functions in Aztec, Mayan or Olmec communities. It was consumed primarily in drinks, and possession of it was indicative of the high position and respect the owner enjoyed. However, when it came to religious matters, cacao was at the forefront of the offerings man made to ensure his good fortune to the gods. The important role of cocoa is also highlighted by its presence in religious iconography: it appears as an attribute of the gods, and in the Maya it is even associated with the very beginning of the world ⁸.

It turns out, however, that despite the central role of traditional cacao as we know it in the lives of pre-Columbian cultures, there was an important place in symbolism for Pataxte as well. Indeed, white cacao may have been the key additive that gave drinks made from cacao fruit... foam. Sixteenth-century texts describing the festivities of Native American communities show that the whipped foam in a drink was seen as a feature indicative of its superior quality. This foam, however, could not be easily obtained in a drink made from cacao alone, so white cacao, mocambo, was just used, to achieve an effect worthy of today's cappuccino ⁹. Despite the reluctance of European visitors to the jaguar tree, so we know today that Pataxte was also valued by pre-Columbian civilizations - the absolute pioneers of cacao.

Theobroma bicolor today and tomorrow

Nowadays, Pataxte fruit is consumed in very different forms. The seeds of this cocoa tree can be fried or added to soups, while the sweet pulp surrounding them in the fruit can be eaten raw. The shell that is formed after the seeds and pulp are selected can be - in accordance with the principle of „nothing is wasted” - used as a natural pot or container ¹⁰. The fruit of the jaguar tree is still used to prepare drinks today, often with thick foam, and these drinks are still popular during the holidays ¹¹. The taste of white cocoa is certainly different from that of traditional cocoa: it lacks the typical „chocolatiness” and is somewhat reminiscent of macadamia and cashew nut. However, it is distinctive enough that after the first taste, it is difficult not to recognize it in other products ^[9].

Pataxte cultivation is popular primarily in Mexico, Colombia, Brazil, Ecuador and Peru, although the names of the tree differ enough in these countries to make one think that a completely different species is involved. Nowadays, white cacao products are beginning to appear on the market, and not only in cold drinks or ice cream, but also in sweets: marzipan and chocolate. It is very rarely used, as ceremonial cocoa due to its price and low availability. In Mexico, where the cultivation of the jaguar tree is also on the rise, its fruit is eaten in sweets or as a raw snack. In the city of Oaxaca, there is even a tradition of preparing a drink called „popo.” which is called „cappuccino of Oaxaca” by visitors ¹². No wonder!

But in addition to its nutritional and flavor benefits, white cacao is also said to have health benefits. Preliminary research on the Pataxte fruit indicates that its pulp may be rich in inulin, which aids digestion and behaves like a natural probiotic: it promotes the growth of the bacteria of our digestive system, while defending against invasive strains. In addition, white cocoa turns out to contain antioxidants, whose positive effects on health are widely known ¹³. So perhaps health-promoting products based on Pataxte fruit will soon be on the market.

White cacao has not enjoyed much fame so far, but it looks like this state of affairs is slowly changing. It is certainly worth keeping an eye on the further fate of the Pataxte fruit, a fruit that is known for its unusual taste, many uses, long history, and - potentially - health properties. Perhaps soon, when ordering hot cocoa on a winter evening, we will be immediately asked: white or dark?

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6. Green, J. S. (2009). Feasting with Foam: Ceremonial Drinks of Cacao, Maize, and Pataxte Cacao. Pre-Columbian Foodways, 315–343. doi:10.1007/978-1-4419-0471-3_13 ↩︎
7. https://www.cacaomama.com/history-spirit ↩︎
8. https://www.medonet.pl/zdrowie,antyoksydanty—zrodla,artykul,1726232.html ↩︎
9. https://chocolatealchemy.com/blog/2021/7/12/mexico-bicolor-pataxte-jaguar-cocoa ↩︎
10. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theobroma_bicolor ↩︎
11. https://thenewgastronome.com/cacaos-unlucky-cousin ↩︎
12. https://thenewgastronome.com/cacaos-unlucky-cousin ↩︎
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